Course Summary
This course provides a detailed look into the roles that plant-based lipids can play in personal care and cosmetic formulations. Particular focus will be put on how the structure of fatty acids found in plant-based lipids, and more importantly the triglycerides and wax esters that contain them, determine the interdependent properties of oxidative stability, compatibility, solid fat content, and crystallization types of various oils, fats, and waxes. Further, we will examine how these properties can inform our choices of oils, fats, waxes, and their derivatives within different personal care and cosmetic products, including anhydrous and emulsion-based products. Finally, we will review some of the scientific literature describing the potential therapeutic benefits of different components of plant-based oils and fats.
Who Should Attend?
This will be a fairly technical course, best suited for professionals with at least some basic knowledge of lipid chemistry and personal care/cosmetic formulation. However, in addition to formulators, quality control chemists, regulatory scientists, and product development professionals will find many new insights within the course materials. As well, any sales and marketing professionals who have a scientific background should find the course beneficial to their current positions.
In addition to the live
instruction and Q&A, attendees will also have access to a full replay of the
course for two weeks following the live course dates.
A certificate
will be provided to attendees of the entire course.
This course is a collaboration with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
(SCC).
Live
Broadcast Schedule
Monday, June
7- 9:00 am -12:00 Noon CDT (Chicago, USA; UTC-5)
Wednesday,
June 9- 9:00 am -12:00 Noon CDT Chicago, USA; UTC-5)
Friday, June
11- 9:00 am -12:00 Noon CDT (Chicago, USA; UTC-5)
Pricing
$289 = AOCS
and SCC* Members
$169 = AOCS
and SCC* Student Members (non-member students pay full rate)
$389 =
Non-Members
*SCC members
receive member pricing via a discount code provided by SCC. Please contact
SCC if you have not
received your code.
Registration:
https://myaccount.aocs.org/PersonifyEbusiness/Meeting-Details?productId=417057248
Course
Outline
Brief review
of vegetable oil lipids, their molecular structures, biological roles, and
naming conventions. With focus on: Triglycerides, Sterols, Waxes, Tocopherols.
Oxidative stability
of fatty acids and triglycerides review:
·
How
fatty acid degrees of unsaturation determine oil and fat stability.
·
Oxidative
stability testing (OSI), determination of relative stability of oils/fats, use
of testing for determining stability of finished products.
·
Focus
on antioxidant mechanisms of preventing degradation and rancidity, with
comparison of native antioxidants and added antioxidants.
·
Formulation
strategies for antioxidant additives in skin care and cosmetics, comparing
functional levels of inclusion, synergies of antioxidant combinations.
Triglyceride
composition, fat composition, and functionality in applications:
·
Introduction
of Solid Fat Content concepts, specifically for anhydrous applications.
·
How
individual fatty acid melt points combine to create unique SFC curves of
triglycerides.
·
How
the composition of triglycerides found in vegetable fats then determine the
unique SFC profiles of those fats.
·
Examples
of how counter-intuitive differences in SFC curves impacts different fats in different
applications.
Crystallization
and the molecular structure of triglycerides and waxes:
·
Molecular
structure of various fat and wax crystals, polymorphic behavior, x-ray
crystallography analysis
·
Incompatibility
of fats due to unique triglyceride compositions.
·
Eutectics,
how incompatibility can alter the final melt point of a fat/oil blend.
·
Blending
fats and oils in anhydrous and emulsions, formulation strategies.
·
Waxes
as structuring agents in anhydrous products, compatibility with different fats
and oils.
Vegetable
oils/fats, waxes, emulsifiers and their roles in skin care formulations:
·
Brief
review of native skin lipid composition, epidermis, sebaceous gland, and
stratum corneum structure.
·
Similarities
and dissimilarities of vegetable oil composition compared to native skin
lipids.
·
Emulsions
and natural oils, advantages and disadvantages, formulations strategies,
updating legacy formulas that contain synthetics.
·
Sterols
and waxes as emulsion stabilizers.
·
Vegetable
oil derived fatty acid-based emulsifiers, how their structure determines
functionality,
molecular structure and the HLB system.
Brief
review of dermatological research studying efficacy of treatment with vegetable
oils and their derivatives, proposed mechanisms:
·
Sterols
and Triterpene Esters
·
Omega
3 and 6 fatty acid dominant oils
·
Antioxidants
·
Polyphenols,
phospholipids, glycolipids
About the Instructor
Benjamin Schwartz, Senior Personal Care Application Specialist, AAK USA Inc.
Graduating
with a Bachelor’s Degree in Biological Sciences, Benjamin Schwartz began his
career in Personal Care as a lab technician for The Estee Lauder Companies.
After a move to the west coast, he spent 12 years as an R&D Chemist, and
then Manager, for contract manufacturer
Columbia
Cosmetics. Through this experience, he has gained an intimate knowledge of
personal care chemistry and formulations. Now having joined AAK, a global
vegetable oil manufacturer, he brings this knowledge and insight to the world
of plant-based lipids and their applications for personal care and cosmetics.
